From Workwear to Fashion
By the 1920s, Levi's? waist overalls were the leading product in men's work pants in the Western states. In the 1930s, Western movies as well as the West in general captured the American imagination. Authentic cowboys wearing Levi's? jeans were elevated to mythic status and Western clothing became synonymous with a life of independence and rugged individualism. Denim was now associated less often with laborers and more with the rugged American now symbolized by John Wayne, Gary Cooper and others.During World War II, American GIs took their favorite pairs of denim pants overseas, guarding them against the inevitable theft of valuable items. When the war was over, massive changes in society signaled the end of one era and the beginning of another. Denim pants became less associated with workwear and more associated with the leisure activities of prosperous post-war America.
Levi Strauss & Co. began selling its products nationally for the first time in the 1950s. Easterners and Midwesterners finally got their first chance to wear real Levi's? jeans. By 1960, the company had changed the name of its most popular product. Until the 1950s, the famous copper riveted pants were referred to as "overalls." When you went into a small clothing store and asked for a pair of overalls, you were given a pair of Levi's? jeans. After World War II, however, Levi Strauss & Co.'s customer base changed dramatically from working adult men to leisure-loving teenage boys and their older college-age brothers who called the product "jeans." By 1960, Levi Strauss & Co. decided that it was time to adopt the name, since these new, young consumers had adopted the product.
How did the word "jeans" come to mean pants made out of denim? There are two schools of thought on this one. The word might be a derivation of "Genoese," meaning the type of fustian pants worn by sailors from Genoa, Italy. There is another possible explanation: jean and denim fabrics were both used for work wear for many decades, and "jeans pants" was a common term for an article of clothing made from jean fabric. Before 1873, Levi Strauss used to buy "jeans pants" from the Eastern part of the United States to sell in California. When the popularity of jean gave way to the even greater popularity of denim for work wear, the word "jeans" was still used as the term for the denim version of these pants.
In 1964 a writer for American Fabrics said, "Throughout the industrialized world denim has become a symbol of the young, active, informal, American way of life. It is equally symbolic of America's achievements in mass production, for denim of uniform quality and superior performance is turned out by the mile in some of America's biggest and most modern mills. Moreover, what was once a fabric only for work clothes, has now also become an important fabric for play clothes, for sportswear of all types." By the next decade, the trade papers made comments such as: "Jeans are more than a make. They are an established attitude about clothes and lifestyle."
This attitude could be seen very clearly in the "decorated denim" craze in the 1970s, which included beaded, embroidered, painted and sequined jeans appearing on streets from California to New York and abroad. Personalizing one's jeans was such a huge trend in the United States that Levi Strauss & Co. sponsored a "Denim Art Contest" in 1973, inviting customers to send in pictures of their decorated denim. The company received 2,000 entries from 49 of the United States, as well as from Canada and the Bahamas. The winning garments were sent on an 18-month tour of American museums and some of them were purchased by Levi Strauss & Co. for the company archives.